SOLUTION-BASED SKINCARE OVERTAKES BOTOX AS MOST POPULAR
Cosmetic Physician, Dr. Phoebe Jones shares her expert tips on how to treat the most asked about skincare problems at home or at the clinic
Australia’s cosmetic industry has grown significantly over the last four years with 51 percent of Australian women (5.3 million) now buying a cosmetic product in an average six months, increasing by more than 10 percent since 2014.1 With the change in season, this spend is only set to rise as we reach for more products to conceal our biggest beauty gripes, according to Cosmetic Physician, Dr. Phoebe Jones.
“When I first started working in the industry, anti-wrinkle injections were by far the most popular treatment clients were requesting but now we’re starting to see that change. Skincare conditions like rosacea and pigmentation were often left untreated but with technological advances and scientific research we now not only have a much greater understanding of what causes these skincare conditions but how to treat them,” says Dr. Jones.
“The even better news is that we are seeing the way in which treatments at home and at the clinic can complement each other for optimal results in addressing some of the most common skincare problems affecting Australians,” she added.
Here Dr. Phoebe Jones shares expert tips for treating six common skincare woes at home and at the clinic:
“Pigmentation simply means colouring. Skin pigmentation occurs when dark spots appear on the body, often on the face, neck and décolletage. For many it can be a result of excessive UV exposure or imbalanced hormones,” says Dr. Jones.
At home: “When it comes to pigmentation, there is no better form of protection than sunscreen,” she says. “This requires strict SPF application every single day, even if you spend most of the day in the office.” She adds that reapplying at lunch time is key and recommends over the counter ingredients that brighten such as niacinamide, kojic acid, liquorice root extract, retinol and 2% hydroquinone.
At the physicians: Dr. Jones says, “Diagnosis is important to determine what treatment plan is suitable.” Pigmentation as a result of sun damage compared to pigmentation due to melasma need to be treated accordingly as one course of action can be more aggressive than the other. “For gradual improvement, I recommend laser facials for both conditions. Alternatively, for more rapid improvement of the sun damaged skin, I recommend some more intense treatments to resurface the skin, such as with a C02 laser, and other lasers that can specifically target sun spots,” added Dr. Jones.
“Rosacea is an inflammatory skin condition that presents itself as a reddish like appearance on the skin usually on the cheeks, chin and forehead,” says Dr. Jones.
At home: “Using water-based lotions and makeup, rather than oil-based ones is great for rosacea sufferers. Also, if you suffer from acne rosacea, I’d suggest using a non-comedogenic sunscreen”, advises Dr. Jones. “Avoiding triggers such as alcohol, temperature extremes, spicy foods, hot showers and sun exposure will reduce rosacea breakouts, otherwise lookout for over the counter topical ingredients that reduce redness and inflammation like niacinamide and azelaic acid,” she added.
At the physicians: “As well as a variety of prescription medications, vascular lasers can be used to reduce redness and broken capillaries on the face,” says Dr. Phoebe.
Dr. Jones says “Enlarged pores are caused by excessive oil production in our bodies, and although there are many reason why this may occur, it usually comes down to genetics.”
At home: “In order to remove dead skin cells and prevent the build up of excess sebum, a topical salicylic acid should be applied after washing the face with a product containing an AHA or BHA,” explains Dr. Jones. “Non-comedogenic creams and makeup are your friends,” she adds.
At the physicians: Dr. Jones says “Further treatments include lasers to improve collagen stimulation. My favourites are the laser genesis and C02 fractionally ablative lasers.”
“Submental fat that forms beneath our chin is what has come to be known as the double chin. Genetics, weight gain and loosening skin can all be blamed for this happening,” explains Dr. Jones.
At home: Sadly, Dr. Jones admits “Some people will always have a double chin even if they lose weight.” However, Dr. Jones discovered a little tip from non-other than Rihanna in a Vogue makeup tutorial. Dr. Jones says that “Rihanna started contouring her double chin, as well as, her jawline with a bit of bronzer – which is quite clever for a mild double chin.”
At the physicians: “For a mild to moderate double chin, I recommend deoxycolic acid injections. This is quick and straightforward”, says Dr. Jones. Deoxycolic acid is found naturally in our small intestines and helps to dissolve the fat found in our food. “When injected into fatty areas it breaks down the adipocytes, which are fat cells, releasing the fat, which is then absorbed and excreted by the body. I generally advise two treatments of this.” Dr. Phoebe says. “For those with a more severe double chin, sub mental liposculpture is a better option as it can be dealt with in one session.”
Dr. Jones says “While there is a natural ageing process, factors like the environment and certain lifestyle choices can speed up the ageing process of our bodies. Premature ageing impacts our skin’s levels of thinness and dryness and causes fine lines to appear.”
At home: Dr. Jones advises there are two must have items, “Sunscreen and prescription tretinoin 0.05%. Sunscreen with good UVA coverage will prevent damage to the collagen and resulting elasticity, while tretinoin is a vitamin A derivative that functions to increase cell turnover and stimulate the production of collagen.”
At the physicians: “Think triple R-Lift,” says Dr. Jones. “Rejuvenate: this can be done through various lasers and skin boosters. Relax: anti-wrinkle injections will improve and prevent dynamic wrinkles. Restore: to replace the volume that has been lost with age, fillers can be used with biostimulators or the patient’s own fat. And finally, Lift: using dissolvable threads. This is a great, minimally-invasive procedure to achieve a more lifted and youthful face.”
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“This condition presents itself as mottled red/brown discoloration and chicken-skin like texture on the neck and chest,” says Dr. Jones.
At home: Dr. Jones says to, “Use broad spectrum 50+ sunscreen every day and to cover your neck and chest where possible. Avoid spraying perfume on your neck or chest as it is a photosensitiser and can worsen the condition. Use lightening creams such as hydroquinone to fade brown discolouration, niacinamide to reduce the redness and vitamin A derivatives and AHAs to stimulate collagen.”
At the physicians: Dr. Jones admits “The neck and chest are a lot trickier than the face as the skin is much thinner and has significantly less sebaceous glands. I therefore like to use a combination of different lasers to reduce pigmentation, reduce redness and stimulate collagen.”
About Dr. Phoebe Jones
Dr. Phoebe Jones is a professional, highly trained and trusted cosmetic doctor that specialises in delivering more beautiful and youthful skin through the use of injectables and laser therapy.
Since graduating with a Bachelor of Medicine from The University of Sydney in 2011, Dr. Jones has worked as both a clinician and a researcher. Dr. Jones currently practises as Concept Cosmetic Medicine.
1 Roy Morgan 2019